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Selenaire

The 4 Most Controversial Skincare Debates Right Now (and Where We Stand on Each)

Skincare has no shortage of arguments, and most of them get settled by whoever posts loudest. We picked four debates that people are actually asking about right now, and tried to do something that is rare in this industry: say what is known, say what is not, and be upfront where a debate touches something we sell. None of this is medical advice, and a couple of these topics are still moving, so check the linked sources for updates.

1. Can you trust the SPF number on your sunscreen?

The fight. Independent testing keeps finding sunscreens that score lower than their label. The best-known K-beauty case dates to 2020, when lab results publicized by INCIDecoder put Purito's Centella Green Level Unscented Sun at about SPF 19 against a label of SPF 50+. A separate clinical report by Insuk Ahn of the Korean Institute of Dermatological Sciences measured 28.4, better but still well below the label. Krave Beauty also pulled a sunscreen over similar testing concerns. In July 2026 the argument flared again in Korea, when a YouTube channel claimed that several Daiso sunscreens fell short of their labeled SPF, reportedly 8 of the 10 it tested. Korea Daiso rejected the claims. And it is not just Korea. Australian consumer group Choice published results in 2025 that led to at least one product being pulled, and Indian and Hong Kong tests have reported similar gaps.

What is actually going on. SPF is measured on human volunteers, and results vary from lab to lab. A BeautyMatter investigation in April 2026 explained that variation is normal, and raised the uncomfortable point that brands commonly give the lab a target number before testing, which creates pressure. Dr Rachel Ho also notes a real-life gap that exists even when the label is accurate: labs apply 2 mg of sunscreen per square centimetre of skin, which is thicker than most people actually apply, often closer to half or a quarter of that.

Where we stand. We cannot independently verify the SPF number on any label, including the ones on products we sell, so we treat the label as a best-case figure. In practice that means:

  • Apply generously, and reapply every two hours when you are outdoors.
  • Check the PA rating too, since it reflects UVA protection.
  • Do not rely on sunscreen alone: shade, hats and clothing count.
  • Prefer brands that publish third-party test results.

If you want to see what we stock, our in-stock sunscreens include the Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun SPF50+, the Abib Quick Sunstick for easy reapplication, and the Torriden DIVE-IN Mild Suncream. A sunscreen you actually wear and reapply beats a perfect one you skip.

2. Does 'clean beauty' mean anything?

The fight. 'Clean' products promise to be free of ingredients like parabens and sulfates, and many shoppers read that as 'safer'. Dermatologists keep pushing back. A 2025 scoping review in Practical Dermatology notes that clean beauty developed without any standardized regulatory definition, with each brand setting its own, and that the label alone offers no guarantee of ingredient safety. Dermatologists quoted in coverage also point out that preservatives are necessary in water-based products to stop bacteria and mold, that parabens are among the least allergenic preservatives, and that some replacements adopted by 'clean' brands do not have a cleaner safety record. Dermatology Times notes, for example, that the Kathon family of preservatives is effective but has a worse record than parabens.

Where we stand. Natural does not equal safe, and 'chemical-free' is not a real thing. We do not use 'clean' as a selling point. If you react to something specific, such as fragrance, avoid that and read ingredient lists for it, rather than following a blanket banned list. For example, Purito makes an unscented version of its centella cream. Always read the label of any product you buy, including ours.

3. Is beef tallow a miracle moisturizer?

The fight. Rendered beef fat went viral as 'ancestral' skincare, with TikTok videos claiming it fixes dryness, acne and eczema. Dermatologists are mostly unimpressed. Cleveland Clinic advises against the trend. Other dermatologists note there is very little scientific research behind the claims, that tallow is heavy and may be comedogenic for sensitive, oily or acne-prone skin, and that its high oleic acid content may weaken the barrier. A few say people with very dry or eczema-prone skin might try a small amount on elbows, knees or hands. Scripps notes that modern moisturizers offer similar moisture-sealing benefits with added skin-supporting ingredients and more rigorous safety testing. NPR's reporting adds that conventional moisturizers contain antioxidants that prevent spoilage, which tallow does not.

Where we stand. The pull of the trend makes sense: it is simple, it feels natural, and heavy occlusives do help dry skin. But you can get the same sealing benefit from a tested ceramide cream, without the pore-clogging and spoilage risks. If dry or reactive skin is the reason you are curious about tallow, try the Anua 3 Ceramide Panthenol Moisture Barrier Cream or the Purito Wonder Releaf Centella Cream first. And if you have eczema, see a doctor rather than treating it with a kitchen ingredient.

4. Benzoyl peroxide and benzene: should you stop using it?

The fight. In March 2024, an independent lab called Valisure filed a petition asking the FDA to recall benzoyl peroxide (BPO) acne products, reporting that benzene, a known carcinogen, can form at high levels in BPO products, particularly when they are stored hot, such as in a car. In March 2025 the FDA announced results from testing 95 BPO products. Reporting says it found more than 90 percent had undetectable or very low benzene levels, and a small number of voluntary recalls followed. The American Academy of Dermatology updated its statement and says research is ongoing. BPO has been used for more than 60 years and remains among the AAD's top recommendations for topical acne treatment.

Why it is still contested. Experts disagree about how worried people should be. Yale dermatologist Dr. Christopher Bunick, who collaborated with Valisure, says people should talk to their health care provider about whether to avoid BPO, and notes alternatives such as salicylic acid exist. He also says benzene formation seems to depend on the formulation, not the BPO percentage. On the other side, Valisure's methods have been challenged by the FDA and companies in earlier benzene cases, and its president has disclosed a patent on preventing BPO from breaking down into benzene, so it is worth reading the story with that context. Reckitt has said its Clearasil products are safe when used and stored as directed.

Where we stand. We are not doctors and will not tell you what to do with an acne medication. A sensible, low-drama approach based on the reporting: store BPO products somewhere cool and never in a hot car, check the FDA's recall list for your product, and ask your doctor or pharmacist whether BPO or an alternative makes sense for you. Do not stop a prescribed treatment without talking to your prescriber.

More debates we have covered

How to read any skincare controversy

  1. Ask who profits. A lab, brand, influencer or news outlet may all have an interest in the answer.
  2. One test is not a verdict. Look for results from multiple independent labs or studies.
  3. Check what regulators and dermatology bodies say, and whether their position has changed.
  4. Change one thing at a time, and talk to a professional before dropping a medical treatment.

Sources